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Thread: Rear Main Seal and Clutch replacement. What else should be done while in there?

  1. #16
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    Dec 2011
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    Southern California
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    IMO they are not "all like that". I am a driving instructor autox and hpde. I have driven dozens of c6z, It's a pretty light pressure clutch and engages about mid point just like a c5z (which I own).

    Paul will add more hopefully.

    The "point" of a self adjusting clutch, which that one is, is that as the clutch friction material wears, the engagement point STAYS THE SAME automatically.

    Don't let a tech feed you a bunch of mumbo jumbo to cover up a job not done properly.
    Last edited by froggy47; 02-02-2014 at 09:53 PM.
    2013 Zo6

    2004 Z06/Z16 Stock motor, very modified suspension

    1996 Black/gray LT4 Coupe (sold)

    2007 328i (traded), 2004 IS300, 1995 M3 (sold), Chevy & Ford & Lexus SUV's.

    '06,'09,'10,'11,'12,'13,'16,'17 SCCA Regional Solo Champion

    Visit my DIY video channel for tips. Click below.

    http://www.youtube.com/user/1947froggy?feature=guide

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
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    New Haven, Ct
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    968

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    Hi there,

    The engagement point should be identical to the OEM that you had in it. BUT< the pedal effort will be a bit higher. Remember, clutch pedal pressure will increase when you add the additional pressure of the LS7 clutch. When new, and a GM clutch, the pressure plate is adjusted at the manufacturing plant and is a bolt in with a NEW flywheel. IF they did NOT put a new flywheel in, or they did not replace the concentric slave cylinder, engagement points can be different.

    Also, if it was not bled correctly because someone was lazy, you could be at the floor. BUT, FYI, clutch pedal fully at the floor should disengage the clutch completely. IT SHOULD NOT start to move the car until you are at least 1 inch off the floor.

    So, NO, there is not a wear characteristic to clutch engagement.

    DOT 4 clutch fluid should be used in ALL c5/c6/c7 clutch hydraulic systems.

    Allthebest, Paul
    GM World Class Certified Service Technician.
    Like us on Facebook: www.facebook.com/corvettemechanic
    Twitter: www.twitter.com/GMvettemechanic

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
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    I am the owner of the shop who did the repair and want to clear the air as a small game of telephone is being played. First of all I will introduce who we are. Cordes Performance Racing "CPR" www.facebook.com/cordesperformanceracing www.cordesperformanceracing.com We are one of the major LSX shops in Phoenix, Az and have a very long extensive knowledge of all LS platforms with our major basis of clients being Corvette owners. If you take a look on the facebook page you will easily see all the builds we do and some of the crazy cars we have done. I direct you to the FB page because are in the process of redoing our entire website. Now that this information is out of the way I will respond to the two messages I quoted.



    Quote Originally Posted by froggy47 View Post
    IMO they are not "all like that". I am a driving instructor autox and hpde. I have driven dozens of c6z, It's a pretty light pressure clutch and engages about mid point just like a c5z (which I own).

    Paul will add more hopefully.

    The "point" of a self adjusting clutch, which that one is, is that as the clutch friction material wears, the engagement point STAYS THE SAME automatically.

    Don't let a tech feed you a bunch of mumbo jumbo to cover up a job not done properly.
    His clutch engages identical to that of a C6Z as we had 3 in the shop when he picked his up and I assure you the job was done properly, it was bled w/ a remote bleeder using a new oem gm slave cylinder. His car has around 120k on the odometer and his factory slave was on it's way out along w/ his clutch still being the oem unit.

    Quote Originally Posted by c4c5specialist View Post
    Hi there,

    The engagement point should be identical to the OEM that you had in it. BUT< the pedal effort will be a bit higher. Remember, clutch pedal pressure will increase when you add the additional pressure of the LS7 clutch. When new, and a GM clutch, the pressure plate is adjusted at the manufacturing plant and is a bolt in with a NEW flywheel. IF they did NOT put a new flywheel in, or they did not replace the concentric slave cylinder, engagement points can be different.

    Also, if it was not bled correctly because someone was lazy, you could be at the floor. BUT, FYI, clutch pedal fully at the floor should disengage the clutch completely. IT SHOULD NOT start to move the car until you are at least 1 inch off the floor.

    So, NO, there is not a wear characteristic to clutch engagement.

    DOT 4 clutch fluid should be used in ALL c5/c6/c7 clutch hydraulic systems.

    Allthebest, Paul
    We did a LS7 clutch which requires it's own flywheel as the LS1 flat style will not work with it. Everything was brand new from GM. His clutch begins to release right at 1'' off. I assure everyone the job is done correctly and everything is flawless. Here is the process we go about bleeding these cars.

    -Install obviously new clutch unit, slave, bleeder line, etc.
    -With car on the rack we gravity bleed the unit
    -Than we do the traditional bleed method, pump, hold, open line until no more air comes out
    - At this point we finish buttoning up the car and put a few miles on it to ensure all components are working properly
    -We than re-bleed the unit to ensure all air is out of the system to be sure

    I want to be clear I'm not coming on here trying to sound like i'm defending myself but rather personally stating what was done and how we did it. This is because many times customers read stuff on a forum and if they don't know what they are being told or the tone of which someone says it they call us up going well this forum said this, and this one this. This is a great site here and a very good place for the DIY w/o the big board sale ad's all over.

  4. #19
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    Dec 2011
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    Southern California
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    It's good that you posted. I am impressed by the 24/24 warranty.

    I wonder if musicman (not being used to a some extra pedal pressure required by c6z) thinks he has to go to the floor to disengage, but really doesn't?

    Maybe he needs to drive another one to compare?



    We on the forum can only go by what a customer posts. Should be an easy one to put his mind at rest.
    Last edited by froggy47; 02-03-2014 at 07:44 PM.
    2013 Zo6

    2004 Z06/Z16 Stock motor, very modified suspension

    1996 Black/gray LT4 Coupe (sold)

    2007 328i (traded), 2004 IS300, 1995 M3 (sold), Chevy & Ford & Lexus SUV's.

    '06,'09,'10,'11,'12,'13,'16,'17 SCCA Regional Solo Champion

    Visit my DIY video channel for tips. Click below.

    http://www.youtube.com/user/1947froggy?feature=guide

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    2

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    Yup that's why I posted as sometimes everything doesn't get relayed correctly, no one's fault just normal human nature. On an oem replacement thing like this I have no problems doing a 24/24 now our normal customer that want's 1k+ hp welllllll hahaha.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    New Haven, Ct
    Posts
    968

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    HI there,

    Good to hear.

    There is the one variable of the speed bleeder put in the system. This could explain the variables the customer noted.

    I have seen many shops take out LS7 flywheels, and 'keep them on the shelf' so they resurface them and install on other vehicles. That was the reason I clarified the information on a NEW flywheel. They are different as the step for LS7 requires it over stock Generation 3 small block.

    As for the rest, we have no problem with clarifications on repairs performed, this is what keeps this forum ahead of all the rest.

    But lets be very clear, justification of the work performed is perfectly acceptable. However, there are constant changes to service procedures on Gen 3 and Gen 4 small block over time and those must be understood for accurate advisement.

    Allthebest, Paul
    GM World Class Certified Service Technician.
    Like us on Facebook: www.facebook.com/corvettemechanic
    Twitter: www.twitter.com/GMvettemechanic

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