View Full Version : shop security

07-23-2010, 08:41 AM
with the economy like it is theres more than a few low life scum looking to make a fast buck from stealing equipment and tools from your average hard working performance car enthusiast , so this is a great time to look over and enhance your current shop security.
Ive had two friends that recently had tools stolen from their shops and one friend had a large tool box stolen at the track as he raced his car.
obviously theres never going to be a 100% fool proof deterrent, in all cases but you CAN greatly swing the odds in your favor, by making theft of your equipment much more difficult
please post all the ideas you can, hopefully with detailed pictures and links showing good ideas to enhance your car and shop security

Ive posted a whole thread on this before




07-23-2010, 11:20 AM
There are lots of little things that can be done to improve security. The first thing is to look at the potential points of entry into the shop or house. Doors and their locksets are usually the first weakness, even though most folks feel they are secure.

Make sure the door is an exterior door. The door and frame is constructed a little differently than other door types. You'd be surprised at how many front doors on homes and stuff are really hollow core interior doors (because they are cheaper than exterior doors and someone wanted to pinch pennies). These doors are very easy to defeat even if you have the best lockset in the world on them.

I prefer a metal door with a metal frame. You can get some now that have a wood veneer on them so they look like a nice "old fashioned" door. True, you don't necessarily need something like this for your shop, but it is a good option for the house. Metal frames are better because they're stronger.

For locksets, we all want to save some money, but you do get what you pay for. At a minimum, you want a locking knob AND a deadbolt package. Stay away from Kwickset stuff. they are popular and failry cheap, but an experienced lock picker can pick them in a few seconds. For just a couple dollars more (they are still "cheap") get the Schlage brand instead. It takes an experienced lockpick at least four (4) minutes to pick them. Time is everything for thieves... they are looking for the quick, easy score.

When you install the door and lockset, don't rely on the screws that come with them. Once the frame is properly set in the opening (square and plumb, with minimal gaps between the door and frame) and anchored, you want to do some minor modifying. You want the gaps around the door to be a small as possible (without affecting the operation of the door) so the deadbolt and the regualr latch extend as far as possible into the frame. The further in they go, the more material resists against prying open or kicking in.

Take at least two of the screws out of the hinges on the frame side of the door. Replace these with longer screws that will go deep into the framing of the house. This little "trick" makes a huge difference in making the door much harder to kick in. This is the side that most folks forget. It also helps keep the door from "sagging" as time goes on.

At a minimum, you want to do the same thing for the striker plates for both the knob and deadbolt on the frame side of the door. Don't use the screws that come with the lockset for this. You can use them to establish where the holes need to be, but throw them away after that. Use long screws that anchor into the house framing. Now, if you have a wood framed door, you can also fairly easily beef it up some around the lockset. Get a piece of metal long enough and wide enough to cover the deadbot and latch area and the width of the frame. Put some holes in the metal to match up witht he holes in the frame for the latch and deadbolt and the strike plate screws. Remove the strike plates and put the metal plate on the inside of the frame, lining up all the holes. Trace around the exterior of the metal plate. This is now your guide for recessign the plate into the frame. Using a sharp wood chisel, remove wood inside your marked line the thickness of the plate. Don't worry if you don't get it exact or if the depth is a little deeper than the thichkness of the plate below the recess for the strike plate. (a little deeper is better than being too shallow). Once you have this done, put the plate in the recess you've made and re-attach the strike plates on top of the metal plate. The strike plate should sit in the same position (flush with the original edge fo the frame) relative to the door edge. Use those long screws again to anchor into the house framing. You can add another screw or two to anchor the plate more to the framing; just drill and countersink the holes in the metal so the screw heads are flush. Fill in the depressions around the strike plates with bondo (the plate will sit lower that the rest of the frame - about the thcikness of the strike plates). You can paint over the bondo to match the frame for a nearly invisible final installation. The metal plate really strengthens the frame alot. The wood framed door is much harder now to pry open or kick in.

The final thing is to make sure the entire frame is well anchored into the house framing. Again, it is easy to skimp here and just use a few screws. Us a bunch of them and make sure they really extend deep into the house framing. Countersink the holes so the screw heads sit flush. You can paint over these for a clean, finished look.

As you read thoruhg the above, you'll notice that I didn't refer to a "nail" once. That's intentional. Screws provide much more clamping force and are generally stronger than using nails. They don't loosen up over time either. It takes more time to install a new door using screws verus nails, but it is much better in the long run. If your contractor doesn't do it, then do it yourself after he's gone. You'll be glad you did.

For a masonry building, the same general principles still apply. Just make sure the wood framing in the opening for the door is very securely attached top the masonry, or use some good masonry anchors instead of just screws to attach the frame directly to the masonry.

Windows are a different matter, but I'll try to post up some hints for those later....

07-23-2010, 01:05 PM
44 Magnum:rofl:

07-23-2010, 04:40 PM
44 Magnum:rofl:

That works too!! I have .50 Desert Eagle, it also works pretty well!! :rofl:

Thanks for the post Grump, your posts are always #1!! :cool: