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Thread: Alarm and Key Fob Issue

  1. #1
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    Default Alarm and Key Fob Issue

    I have a 2000 Coupe with ~28000 miles on it. Recently the key fobs (both) have been losing sync and won't lock/unlock the car. Re-syncing them works for a while. Remote remote batteries are good.

    Also, possibly related, about 20-30 seconds after I park the car the backup lights flash and the alarm sets itself, even if the doors are not locked. Is this 2 separate issues or could they be related? I have an Optima Red-top battery that has been on a battery tender during the winters, I drive the car almost every day between April and November. I'm thinking the first thing I need to do is get the battery load-tested or is there something else more obvious?

    Thanks in advance!
    Last edited by ATM; 03-18-2017 at 07:51 AM.

  2. #2
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    I would have the battery in the car load tested like you are thinking.
    2015 Stingray Z51 w/ Magnetic Ride Control & 8-speed Automatic


  3. #3
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ATM View Post
    I have a 2000 Coupe with ~28000 miles on it. Recently the key fobs (both) have been losing sync and won't lock/unlock the car. Re-syncing them works for a while. Remote remote batteries are good.

    Also, possibly related, about 20-30 seconds after I park the car the backup lights flash and the alarm sets itself, even if the doors are not locked. Is this 2 separate issues or could they be related? I have an Optima Red-top battery that has been on a battery tender during the winters, I drive the car almost every day between April and November. I'm thinking the first thing I need to do is get the battery load-tested or is there something else more obvious?

    Thanks in advance!

    Always load test the battery with a proper load tester before performing any electrical diagnosis as Poltergeist stated. Battery cables need to be clean and tight. A tight battery clamp bolt does not always mean that the cable end is tight to the battery, make sure to perform the twist test after tightening the battery clamp bolts (that includes top post clamps), the cables should not move after tightening the bolts.
    20+ years ASE and Honda Master Tech

    1998 black 6 spd convertible

  4. #4
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    I think I should go ahead and replace the battery without testing it. I checked my records and I bought it in Oct 2003. I don't think I can ask more than 13 years 5 months for a battery!

  5. #5
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    2015 Stingray Z51 w/ Magnetic Ride Control & 8-speed Automatic


  6. #6
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    Battery

    2004 Z06/Z16 Stock motor, very modified suspension

    1996 Black/gray LT4 Coupe (sold)

    2007 328i (traded), 2004 IS300, 1995 M3 (sold), Chevy & Ford & Lexus SUV's.

    '06,'09,'10,'11,'12,'13,'16 SCCA Regional Solo Champion

    Visit my DIY video channel for tips. Click below.

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  7. #7
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    After replacing the battery on Friday all the electrical gremlins seem to have gone away!

  8. #8
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    Glad it was that easy.
    2015 Stingray Z51 w/ Magnetic Ride Control & 8-speed Automatic


  9. #9
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    So, I think I spoke too soon. I installed the new battery on 24 March and it seemed everything was back to normal for a week. I used the car every day. I last drove the car on Thursday with no issues but this morning I when I opened the unlocked door the alarm went off. The remote wouldn't work so I had to put the key into the ignition and turn it to get the alarm to shut off.

    Any suggestions on what to try next? Another thing I should note is that with the new battery the Security light on the dash started working again and the theft lock LED on the radio started blinking again. I hadnt even noticed they had stopped working at some point with the old battery.

  10. #10
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    Pull the codes & post.
    2004 Z06/Z16 Stock motor, very modified suspension

    1996 Black/gray LT4 Coupe (sold)

    2007 328i (traded), 2004 IS300, 1995 M3 (sold), Chevy & Ford & Lexus SUV's.

    '06,'09,'10,'11,'12,'13,'16 SCCA Regional Solo Champion

    Visit my DIY video channel for tips. Click below.

    http://www.youtube.com/user/1947froggy?feature=guide

  11. #11
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    Did you clean any corrosion off the battery cables and torque to spec? Verify that the battery cables don't wiggle?
    2015 Stingray Z51 w/ Magnetic Ride Control & 8-speed Automatic


  12. #12
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    The terminals are clean and corrosion free but they were not completely tight. I don't have a proper torque wrench but i was able to tighten each one a little.

    It's been several years since I looked at codes, here's what I have today:

    BCM B2578H
    BCM B2583H
    LDCM B1064H
    RDCM B1064H
    RFA B1096H
    RFA B1064H
    RFA B1016H

    Thanks!

  13. #13
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    They are all H history, so I would clear them all, keep an eye on the terminals and see if any codes come back.

    2004 Z06/Z16 Stock motor, very modified suspension

    1996 Black/gray LT4 Coupe (sold)

    2007 328i (traded), 2004 IS300, 1995 M3 (sold), Chevy & Ford & Lexus SUV's.

    '06,'09,'10,'11,'12,'13,'16 SCCA Regional Solo Champion

    Visit my DIY video channel for tips. Click below.

    http://www.youtube.com/user/1947froggy?feature=guide

  14. #14
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    It's been a few days since I cleared the codes and I don't have any new ones yet. The alarm does still set itself periodically and the interior lights come on intermittently all by themselves and then go out on their own. I have not studied it enough to see if there's any pattern but it seems like the car thinks it's getting a lock command (lights flash/alarm sets) or unlock command (interior lights go on for a period and then go out). I'm worried if this happens continuously it will eventually kill the battery. Is there a ground point or wiring harness I should check for a damaged wire?

  15. #15
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    Do you have a fob/remote with a slide switch on it, near the key ring itself?
    20+ years ASE and Honda Master Tech

    1998 black 6 spd convertible

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