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Thread: (Front) Sway Bar Links - Replacement

  1. #1

    Default (Front) Sway Bar Links - Replacement

    Hello,

    I'm preparing to replace the original front sway bar links on my 1999 C5 coupe with 60,xxx miles on them.

    The seals on the links are bad and the plastic links are slightly malformed from wear / use.

    Has anyone replaced these links? Any suggestions? I have replaced links on other GM vehicles, but these links do not have a back up nut or insert for a torx tool to hold the bolt head and keep it from spinning. Thank you.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    791

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    I would stay away from the plastic ones (what were they thinking?). There should be a "flat" where you can get a skinny wrench on to tighten them.

    2004 Z06/Z16 Stock motor, very modified suspension

    1996 Black/gray LT4 Coupe (sold)

    2007 328i (traded), 2004 IS300, 1995 M3 (sold), Chevy & Ford & Lexus SUV's.

    '06,'09,'10,'11,'12,'13,'16 SCCA Regional Solo Champion

    Visit my DIY video channel for tips. Click below.

    http://www.youtube.com/user/1947froggy?feature=guide

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by froggy47 View Post
    I would stay away from the plastic ones (what were they thinking?). There should be a "flat" where you can get a skinny wrench on to tighten them.


    Thanks.

    I saw that AC Delco makes a "professional series" link that is metal, instead of the OEM plastic composite links. I looked at my rear sway bar links and they are not deformed (and the seals are intact). Just the front ones are worn out.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    San Antonio, TX
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    1,931

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    Use the GM endlinks from the ZO6. Get the metal ones. Direct fit and they will last. Not only do they last, they will slightly help handling. You can also upgrade the sway bars to the ZO6 ones. Ride quality will only be slightly stiffer, but handling will be noticeably improved.
    http://www.crossedflags.com/forum/signaturepics/sigpic4_1.gif
    2001 Dark Bowling Green Metallic Coupe - 6-spd and mods (400 rwhp)
    2005 Aqua Blur SSR - 6-spd & LS2(Donna's hotrod), bone stock for now

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by Donna_and_John View Post
    Use the GM endlinks from the ZO6. Get the metal ones. Direct fit and they will last. Not only do they last, they will slightly help handling. You can also upgrade the sway bars to the ZO6 ones. Ride quality will only be slightly stiffer, but handling will be noticeably improved.


    When I bought the new front end links from my Chevrolet dealer several days ago I learned that GM has discontinued the nylon composite end links and replaced them with metal links for the base C5. I bought two for the front (the original rear composite links are not deformed and the seals intact). The new GM links are labeled "Made In Japan". I'll probably replace the rear links after I do the fronts. Thanks.

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by froggy47 View Post
    I would stay away from the plastic ones (what were they thinking?). There should be a "flat" where you can get a skinny wrench on to tighten them.



    After doing a little more research I learned I will need an 18mm "skinny head" wrench - which I ordered. Thanks.

  7. #7

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 1999 White C5 Coupe View Post
    After doing a little more research I learned I will need an 18mm "skinny head" wrench - which I ordered. Thanks.
    Finally got around to replacing the links. I did not need the skinny 18 mm wrench. To remove the original composite links I used a T40 socket bit and an 18 mm box / open end wrench. To install the new metal links (GM updated part) required an 8mm socket and an 18 mm box / open end wrench. With both front tires / wheels removed and the frame on jack stands, it was very easy.

    The seals on the original links were very deteriorated and the links were slight deformed. I have never driven the car in inclement weather or driven it hard. I was surprised at how bad the links were after 63,000 easily driven miles.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    791

    Default

    If the nuts do not have self locking capability make sure you use a little blue loctite.

    2004 Z06/Z16 Stock motor, very modified suspension

    1996 Black/gray LT4 Coupe (sold)

    2007 328i (traded), 2004 IS300, 1995 M3 (sold), Chevy & Ford & Lexus SUV's.

    '06,'09,'10,'11,'12,'13,'16 SCCA Regional Solo Champion

    Visit my DIY video channel for tips. Click below.

    http://www.youtube.com/user/1947froggy?feature=guide

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