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Thread: Ignition replaced.....dtc's and electrical issue are finally gone!!

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Clever, MO
    Posts
    176

    Default Ignition replaced.....dtc's and electrical issue are finally gone!!

    I'm sharing this today on this forum to let everyone know how I finally fixed all the electrical gremlins in my '98 A4 coupe w/81K miles on the clock.

    Beginning in early 2012, I started getting the following DTC's on a consistent basis, which left my car without the HVAC and F45 electronic suspension working...as well as ABS and Traction Control warning lites on the dash display. It didn't happen all the time at first, but became worse and worse....the problems would come and go, then the functions quit completely last summer.

    These were the codes from my DIC:

    10 PCM
    P0134H-C
    P1571H-C
    P1631H
    P1644H-C
    P1652H-C

    28-TCS
    NO COMM

    38-RTD
    NO COMM

    60-IPC
    U1040H

    99-HVAC
    NO COMM

    A1-RDCM
    B2265H

    BO-RFA
    C2100H

    40-BCM
    B0432H-C
    B2723H

    For over a year, I've been studying my GM service manuals, reading a post on another forum and asking every C5 owner at car shows if they had similar issues with their cars. I definitely learned the most from a post started by Bill Curlee on the CF. Finally this spring I talk to an owner who said his HVAC quit on him and he changed the ignition which fixed it. I also had a local non-dealer technician try to diagnose my issues but all he recommended after 1.5 hours of labor with my assistance, was to r/r the EBTCM and BCM. I was not comfortable with that nor just throwing money and parts at my car without really knowing.... so I kept researching.

    Then a week ago, I read a post from Tom (Hapiduffer) on the CF and Tom's issues sounded like my problems, but instead of cleaning the ignition contacts as described by Bill Curlee that Tom did, I opted to just buy a new unit....from AutoZone for $89. I still wasn't very confident in doing this repair so I PM'd Tom and he called me within a couple of hours and convinced me I could DO IT! I'm 69 with bad knees but with a lot of mechanical experience, and have always done my own service on my Vettes and Blazer but I was sure nervous about this ignition repair and not knowing if it would really fix my issues. So finally...last Saturday I gathered up all my notes, ignition pics (inc.instructions from Vette Essentials) to r/r the console and IP center trim.... and headed out to my garage and disconnected the neg. battery terminal...and spent about 3 hours on this project. I took my sweet time so as to not break plastic parts and probably spent most of the first 1.5 hour learning the removal technique for each of the electrical connectors that had to be taken apart. Seems each one had a different method of removal...well maybe not, but it sure seemed like it! Once I actually got to the ignition, it was easy from there on, and I had it replaced and all the trim pieces carefully back together in 30-45min. I reconnected the neg. battery cable and started my car...praying it would be back to normal again.....and it was!! I think I was actually surprised to NOT see that damn ABS and TC warning lite not ON, but to see my climate control HVAC temp reading again was the best thing since my a/c etc had not worked for over a year. After several test drives over the weekend, everything worked like a champ and it feels like I've got a brand new C5 again. What a great feeling and relief that it's normal again.

    fyi....I took apart my old ignition and 2 of the 5 contacts were quite burnt or corroded.....just like the points in my old '56 Chevy distributor used to look like. I'll clean them and re-arch the tension in the spring arms and just keep it as a back up for now.

    If I can do.....you can too.

    Just sharing with all of you who may have similar issues with your C5's.

    Be well....
    Dennis

    IGN 6 SWITCH FRONT.jpg
    IGN 8 SWITCH CONTACTS.jpg
    IGN 4 SWITCH KEY.jpg
    IGN 5 WIRE CONFIG.jpg
    Last edited by Fixvet; 07-31-2013 at 06:50 AM.

    Dennis "Fix" Fixsen dba FixVet Detailing Services, Clever, MO
    1998 Black over Torch Red Coupe, A4, F45, 3.15 rear, HP Tune, CAI, Vararam Velocity Stack, Z06 TI Catbacks, drilled/slotted rotors....VFW Life Member, VN Vet 70-71, 4thINF & 101stABN

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Ontario, Calif.
    Posts
    2,976

    Default

    Congrats on getting it fixed!
    2015 Stingray Z51 w/ Magnetic Ride Control & 8-speed Automatic


  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Portage, Indiana
    Posts
    59

    Default

    Great job Dennis!
    Making something idiotproof only serves to breed a better grade of idiot.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Southern California
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    Default

    So this is the ignition SWITCH you did, correct?

    2004 Z06/Z16 Stock motor, very modified suspension

    1996 Black/gray LT4 Coupe (sold)

    2007 328i (traded), 2004 IS300, 1995 M3 (sold), Chevy & Ford & Lexus SUV's.

    '06,'09,'10,'11,'12,'13,'16 SCCA Regional Solo Champion

    Visit my DIY video channel for tips. Click below.

    http://www.youtube.com/user/1947froggy?feature=guide

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    634

    Default

    Awesome! Congrats!

    What a great feeling and knowing it was done right.

    1998 Six Speed, Torch Red Coupe - K&N CAI, Vararam Velocity Stack, Z06 exhaust, Z06 sway bars, Z06 intake, C6 Z06 shifter, stainless steel brake lines, Z06 shocks, Borla X pipe, drilled/slotted rotors. Projector headlamps and full LED rear lights. Dyno'ed at 330 RWHP & 340 RWTQ.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Clever, MO
    Posts
    176

    Default

    Froggy.....yes......I just added a couple of pics to my post above. I r/r'd the plastic module that the key/cylinder fits into from the front. The cylinder pops right out and fit the new part perfectly.
    Last edited by Fixvet; 07-31-2013 at 06:48 AM.

  7. #7

    Default

    HI there,

    Also please remember, the contact points on the ignition switches has been updated with the new GM part number. I am unaware if the aftermarket has the same update.

    Also, what alot of people do not realize is that when you clean the contacts on those switches, you are actually creating a faster path to failure by removing the coating on the contacts.

    Smart move on your part to REPLACE rather than clean!!!

    Way to go.

    Paul
    GM World Class Certified Service Technician.
    Like us on Facebook: www.facebook.com/corvettemechanic
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  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Clever, MO
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    Default

    Paul......thanks for that new information about the contacts. I'll save that in with my ignition notebook!

    I guess time will tell if my new part has longevity or not....but at least I feel confident again about driving my car. I'm planning a road trip in Sept. so in the mean time I'll be doing short runs here in the Ozarks to continue monitor the systems. Sure feels good though!!

    I follow all of your posts on FB, and am very appreciative of all you do for the Corvette community. My car was built 11-03-97 and have never replaced anything like this, only the normal brake replacements and regular service issues, so these dtc's and ignition r/r was a huge deal for this old man! I could not have done it without you guys who coach us owners everyday. Thanks again.....Dennis

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    MI
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    Default

    My switch is original still and I know one day it'll start giving me issues.

    Did you have to have it coded at the dealer FixVet? I just ask because I see an AC Delco switch listed on RockAuto and it states it needs to be coded at the dealer. Just wondered if all of them do, or just this one.

    Regarding cleaning contacts, there is a contact cleaner sold at RadioShack for cleaning contacts on any potentiometers, or tuning dials found on old radios and TV's, that's what I would use to clean these same contacts. If not, as Paul states, not using the right product can take the coatings right off contact.
    Last edited by toolguy; 07-31-2013 at 10:54 AM.

    1998 Six Speed, Torch Red Coupe - K&N CAI, Vararam Velocity Stack, Z06 exhaust, Z06 sway bars, Z06 intake, C6 Z06 shifter, stainless steel brake lines, Z06 shocks, Borla X pipe, drilled/slotted rotors. Projector headlamps and full LED rear lights. Dyno'ed at 330 RWHP & 340 RWTQ.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Southern California
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    Default

    Good pics added, thanks.

    2004 Z06/Z16 Stock motor, very modified suspension

    1996 Black/gray LT4 Coupe (sold)

    2007 328i (traded), 2004 IS300, 1995 M3 (sold), Chevy & Ford & Lexus SUV's.

    '06,'09,'10,'11,'12,'13,'16 SCCA Regional Solo Champion

    Visit my DIY video channel for tips. Click below.

    http://www.youtube.com/user/1947froggy?feature=guide

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Clever, MO
    Posts
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    Yes, as Paul stated above....the plastic part I replaced is not coded. The key/cylinder is easily removed from the part with the bad contacts by pushing a little tab at about the 5 o'clock position as looking at my pic with it still bolted to the dash bracket. Surprisingly...it was not tight or snug at all. My car has the A4 tranny so it also has the trans cable attached to the back of the switch that also basically falls out once the release tab is pushed from the bottom. Just not much room to get both hands in there to hold the piece and then get the elec. connectors free from the bottom and the rear of the part. That...and carefully removing the dash and console trims pieces took me the most time because I'd never done it before. Later...



    Quote Originally Posted by toolguy View Post
    My switch is original still and I know one day it'll start giving me issues.

    Did you have to have it coded at the dealer FixVet? I just ask because I see an AC Delco switch listed on RockAuto and it states it needs to be coded at the dealer. Just wondered if all of them do, or just this one.

    Regarding cleaning contacts, there is a contact cleaner sold at RadioShack for cleaning contacts on any potentiometers, or tuning dials found on old radios and TV's, that's what I would use to clean these same contacts. If not, as Paul states, not using the right product can take the coatings right off contact.

  12. #12

    Default

    HI there,

    The quality work here and the quality diagnostics is something to be proud of. I am STICKING this thread because EVERYONE who owns a c5 needs to see this!

    The ignition LOCK CYLINDER does have to be coded. The IGNITION SWITCH does NOT and can be plug and play.

    Allthebest, Paul
    GM World Class Certified Service Technician.
    Like us on Facebook: www.facebook.com/corvettemechanic
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  13. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Posts
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by c4c5specialist View Post
    HI there,

    The quality work here and the quality diagnostics is something to be proud of. I am STICKING this thread because EVERYONE who owns a c5 needs to see this!

    The ignition LOCK CYLINDER does have to be coded. The IGNITION SWITCH does NOT and can be plug and play.

    Allthebest, Paul
    Hi, so
    Sorry but based on everything I know the above is incorrect with regards to the ignition lock cylinder, which I am sure does NOT need to be recoded. On a C5 the resistor is in the key and the Ignition lock cylinder has a sensor which reads the resistance and passes it to the EBCM for verification, nothing more. If you fit a new ignition lock cylinder what you do have to deal with is the key; a couple of options. If you get a new key with the cylinder it needs to have the same resistance as you current key. Alternatively take your cylinder and original key to a decent locksmith and get them to reset the new tumblers in your new cylinder to match you original key. Some people talk about taking the tumblers from the original cylinder and fitting them to the new cylinder. OK if you want to do the job yourself but these things do wear so using new tumblers is probably the better option.
    Somebody who really knows their stuff might be able to recode the EBCM to the new key but I suspect that is beyond most of us (I have never read anything on this). Maybe if you have a Tach2 or whatever it is called, it is easy to dial in a new resistance to the EBCM but I suspect the dealership will charge a lot more than the 40-50 bucks locksmith charge.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
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    MI
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    I see... So the AC Delco description on Rock Auto is wrong but it is the correct part per the pic under 1998 Corvette.

    1998 Six Speed, Torch Red Coupe - K&N CAI, Vararam Velocity Stack, Z06 exhaust, Z06 sway bars, Z06 intake, C6 Z06 shifter, stainless steel brake lines, Z06 shocks, Borla X pipe, drilled/slotted rotors. Projector headlamps and full LED rear lights. Dyno'ed at 330 RWHP & 340 RWTQ.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    813

    Default

    I'd love to see a closeup of the bad part. Any chance?

    2004 Z06/Z16 Stock motor, very modified suspension

    1996 Black/gray LT4 Coupe (sold)

    2007 328i (traded), 2004 IS300, 1995 M3 (sold), Chevy & Ford & Lexus SUV's.

    '06,'09,'10,'11,'12,'13,'16 SCCA Regional Solo Champion

    Visit my DIY video channel for tips. Click below.

    http://www.youtube.com/user/1947froggy?feature=guide

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