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Thread: Oil Pan and timing chain cover leaks

  1. #1
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    Default Oil Pan and timing chain cover leaks

    I have a 1969 350/350 original block which leaks oil from the timing chain cover Oil pan area.

    History:

    Bought the car no leaks. Hit the drain plug somehow (I think backing off the trailer) and had to have the oil pan replaced. This is when the issues started.

    Had a mechanic replace the oil pan with a chrome one and kept original timing chain cover. Still leaked.

    Had a mechanic Replace the original timing chain cover with Chrome and kept the Chrome oil pan. Still leaked in different areas.

    Different mechanic told me I needed to replace both with genuine GM replacement Oil Pan and Timing chain cover with a 1 piece gasket. This is where I am today.

    Still leaking worse than ever where the timing chain cover meets the oil pan. Someone told me to use oversized gasket. Not sure which to get. I am thinking of doing it myself this time and putting th original timing chain cover back on.

    Any advice? Anyone had the same problem?

  2. #2
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    Default

    Were the chrome ones some of the cheap ones that are out there or one of the name brands? The cheaper ones I have heard of them leaking because they are not flat.

  3. #3
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    Default

    I believe they were probably the cheap foreign models.

  4. #4
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    This is kind of tough to fully diagnose without looking at the engine directly. That being said, there are some things to check:

    Like Rob said, some of the aftermarket parts out there are not flat or don't fit as well as they should. This causes leaks and a lot of frustration. If I understand correctly, you have taken off all the chromed parts and replaced them with new GM parts. If this is correct, then the aftermarket "issue" shouldn't be present. If not, then the aftermarket parts could still be causing the problem.

    Have all the bolts been checked to verify they're properly torqued down?

    Another question comes to mind.... Are you absolutely sure it is leaking from the timing cover/oil pan seal and not the crank snout seal? A crank snout seal leak can look like a pan leak.

    Was the bottom of the block thoroughly cleaned (all the old gasket material removed) before the new pan was installed? If there is residue there, it can cause the leak you're describing also.

    Were the new parts inspected before they were installed? If they got bent or nicked during shipping, that could be the source of the leaks.

    How were the new parts installed? Was it an "in frame" job, (the engine stayed in the car)? It is possible that something got tweaked a little during the install. If something got bent or isn't lined up correctly, then you'd have a leak.

    I've never used a one-piece seal, so I can't comment on how effective they really are. I've had good luck with the GM seal parts. As long as all the surfaces are really clean and nothing is bent or damaged.

    If the leak is a non-pressure leak like you describe, you may be able to use some RTV silicone on the timing cover to pan gasket to stop the leak. I'd do this as a last resort; after I'd ruled out any other problems or sources of the leak.
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    2001 Dark Bowling Green Metallic Coupe - 6-spd and mods (400 rwhp)
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  5. #5
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    So I called the guy who replaced the parts, unfortunately he is 200 miles away, and the first thing he thought of was that he did not replace the crankshaft sleeve. I think its probably the same as the crank snout seal. This might explain why it didnt leak sitting in his shop for 5 months but after I drove it about 40 miles it started leaking. Its leaking right down the middle and it absolutely could be the crank seal. I am guessing I have to pull the timing chain cover off to install it. thank you for the suggestions!
    Last edited by Woolsey_69; 02-16-2011 at 11:36 AM.

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  7. #7
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    Thank you Grumpy. I checked this hole and it is plugged and no oil near the hole. I am really thininking its the Crankshaft seal. Now I am trying to decide if i want to do it myself or take it back to the guy who originally worked on it.

  8. #8
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    I decided to try fixing the leak myself this weekend. I reverted back to my old Original 1969 cover. I changed the Crankshaft seal and timing cover gasket. The gasket instruction say to run a bead of RTV along the outside where the timing chain cover meets the oil pan. I have never heard anyone doing this in anything I have read. Before I put the balancer on does anyon have an opinion or does anyone practice this technique?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Woolsey_69 View Post
    I decided to try fixing the leak myself this weekend. I reverted back to my old Original 1969 cover. I changed the Crankshaft seal and timing cover gasket. The gasket instruction say to run a bead of RTV along the outside where the timing chain cover meets the oil pan. I have never heard anyone doing this in anything I have read. Before I put the balancer on does anyon have an opinion or does anyone practice this technique?
    I have heard of this being done. It is one of the possible fixes I mentioned above (after other possible sources of the leak have been ruled out). I'd follow the directions.... it would be "cheap insurance" at this point, given all that you've been through. Just make sure you used the high-temp RTV material (I think it is still black colored).

    Put a small bead on there and let the RTV set-up some. You don't want it fully cured, but you do want it to have some stiffness to it. Then, put the parts together and torque down the parts to their proper value. Let everything sit for a while to make sure the RTV fully cures before you fire it up.
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    2001 Dark Bowling Green Metallic Coupe - 6-spd and mods (400 rwhp)
    2005 Aqua Blur SSR - 6-spd & LS2(Donna's hotrod), bone stock for now

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  11. #11
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    Did this fix your issue?

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